How to Make Your R.C. Car Go Faster With the Same Motor

Posted on January 17, 2011 by admin

Run an electric motor for two hours while connected to a 3-volt battery or power supply. This causes the brushes to change shape and mold to the shape of the armature. It reduces any friction that the engine might have between the armature and the bearings.

Break in the motor if you have a nitro car by taking it outside for a few hours when you first install the engine. Remove the body from the car and run it around the yard for a few hours at a lower speed. Continue running it at slow speeds until you run through at least two tanks of fuel. This allows the carburetor to warm up to faster speeds and clears out the engine.

Check the gears and any part inside the RC car that rotates to make sure they’re moving correctly and moving freely. Even one part that moves too slow or gets stuck will cause your car to slow down dramatically. If you see anything moving incorrectly, clean it carefully with compressed air and replace it if needed.

Spend some time practicing the handling of your car out on the track. If you want your electric moter  to go faster, then you probably plan on racing it or you’ve been racing it. The winner of the race isn’t necessarily the person with the best car, but the person who has the best handling car and can best tackle the track. Find ways to get around the track easier and you’ll get faster lap times.

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Using a Water Pressure Gauge

Posted on January 6, 2011 by admin

Make sure no water is running in the house or from outside faucets before using the pressure gauge, or the measurement will be inaccurate.

Screw the pressure gauge onto the hose end, outdoor faucet or washing machine connection. Turn the water on all the way, and check the reading on the pressure gauge. Then turn the water off and remove the pressure gauge.

Check for loss of pressure in the system by taking a measurement near the water source, which may be at the water meter if you have city water, or at the well pressure tank if your residence or business is rural. Use the faucet located closest to this area of the plumbing to check the pressure there. Any significant difference between that measurement and the first one indicates a leak or a possible deposit build-up in the pipes. You also can check for leaks in a sprinkler system by comparing the pressure near the source to pressure at the end of the system, and any points along the way.

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Selecting a well pump submersible water

Posted on December 30, 2010 by admin

A Submersible Water Pump is used for wells are relatively deep and intensive pumping power. Van in his own good and then pumping the water from below. This is different than a jet pump, which does not fit in well and is used to shallower sites. There are many different types of well submersible pumps, and choosing one, in his view should be, well away from the house, the depth of the well water flow, and durability.

Make sure your pump is durable and will last a long time. You must have a warranty. The purchase of a brand of Sears or Craftsman is a good idea because they generally work better and do very well.

Buy a pump that is made of stainless steel and corrosion resistant. Most of them are built to endure years of being submerged in the well.

Taking into account the depth of the well, to what extent the house and the elevation of your home when out how the power you need. Also consider the gallons per minute of drilling site. Each well Submersible Water Pumphas a power rating (horsepower, or HP), a nominal voltage (voltage rating, which refers to the type of cable used) and flow rate (gallons per minute). 1 HP pump and can pump water to about 10 gallons per minute to 250 feet. Some wells 02.01 HP will work with wells that are 100 meters deep and can pump water at 10 gallons per minute.

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How to Wire Deep Well Pump Controls

Posted on December 23, 2010 by admin

Submersible pumps are required for wells located hundreds of feet underground because of their ability to push water to great heights while their ability to pull it is restricted by atmospheric pressure. Since waterproofing electrical components is complicated, submersible pump motor designers locate only essential motor functions under water, while placing the remainder, including motor starter logic, in a control box at ground level. Wiring them is a matter of interposing the control box between the pressure switch and the motor.

Turn off the pump breaker in the main breaker box.

Connect the 220-Volt AC incoming Romex power cable from the breaker box to the pressure switch, which has been piped into the incoming water line to the capacity tank. Insert the cable through one of the cable clamps in the pressure switch. Cut back the white outer sheath on the Romex cable to expose about 3 inches of each of the conductors–black, white and green.

Strip the individual wires back about 5/8 inch and insert under the two incoming power terminal tabs on the switch. Insert the green ground wire to the ground terminal tab. Tighten the terminal tab screws securely.

Connect the switched power lead to the motor control panel. The major components are contained in the panel cover itself, which plugs into the panel’s back pane containing the connection terminals.

Cut the cable sheath back as before and expose about 2 inches of the conductors. Strip back the individual wires 5/8 inch and insert the black and the white wires under the L1 and L2 terminal tabs. Insert the green wire under the ground tab. Tighten the three screws over the terminal tabs securely.

Wire the submersible pump leads to their respective marked terminals. The capacitor-start pump has a total of four wires to connect. The black and yellow wires are the pump run wires, the red wire is the start wire and the green wire is the ground connector. Connect each wire under its color-designated terminal—B, Y, R and G–by stripping the insulation back 5/8 inch, and inserting them under each corresponding terminal tab. Tighten the screws securely. Reinstall the cover.

Turn on the pump breaker in the main breaker box. The pump should switch on and run until it reaches the system’s high pressure setting, usually around 60-pounds-per-square-inch (psi). The switch is designed to cut it off again at about 35-psi. This is so that the water is supplied in a pressure band that prevents the motor from cycling on and off repeatedly around a single pressure setting.

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How to Install a Deep-Well Water Pump

Posted on December 16, 2010 by admin

Installing a submersible pump is not as daunting a project as it may sound. A deep-well pump set at 500 feet goes in exactly the same way as one set at 50 feet, with the exception that very deep wells need stronger pipe, usually galvanized. The same basic methods apply when wiring or setting it, however.

Find the Right Pump
Make sure your well casing is wide enough to accommodate a 4-inch submersible water pump.

The depth of your well and the length of the water line from the well to the house will determine how big your pump needs to be. If you do not know the depth of your well, drop a heavy weight on a string at least 400 to 500 feet long down the well until it hits bottom, then mark the string with tape at ground level.

Subtract 10 feet from your well depth to keep the pump clear of sediment at the bottom of the well, then check the various pump ratings to find a pump that is rated for this depth.

If you are pumping uphill to the house or over a long distance, you may need an even larger pump. Call a pump expert for help if needed.

When you have decided on the correct pump, buy a pump control box of the same rating. If your pump is 1 1/2 horsepower, you will need a 1 1/2 horsepower pump controller.

Assemble Pump and Pipe
With the pipe and pump on the ground beside the well, wrap the threads of the 1 1/4-inch male barbed adapter with thread tape and thread it into the top of the pump.

Slide two hose clamps over the fitting. If you are using a torque arrester, also slide the two clamps for the arrester over the fitting.

Work the end of your PVC pipe into the barbed adapter. You will need at least 12 feet of Schedule 80 1 1/4-inch PVC pipe to attach to the deep well pump. If you are running PVC all the way up the well, this step applies to either one.

Use the two hose clamps to clamp the hose to the fitting. The entire system must be watertight, or the pump will not work.

Clamp the torque arrester to the PVC pipe about 4 inches above the fitting. Wrap electrical tape around the pipe above and below the torque arrester to keep it from sliding up or down the pipe while the pump is being lowered into the well.

When buying your pipe, determine whether you will use a pitless adapter in the well casing or some other type of fitting to attach the well pipe to the discharge pipe at the top of the casing. You will need to install these before inserting the pump into the well.

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How to Install a Well Water Submersible Pump

Posted on December 9, 2010 by admin

When your submersible water pump goes out and you suddenly have no water, you realize how much your life depends on the liquid. Whether you have a deep or shallow well, you need certain tools and knowledge to replace a submersible pump. Here is how to install a well water submersible pump to get your household back up and running again.

Open the well cap. A simple hex nut holds most well caps in place, so all you need for this step is the properly sized socket wrench.

Pull the old submersible pump out of the well casing. With a shallow well, say around 50 to 100 feet or so, you may be able to pull it out by hand. Use a winch to pull the submersible pump out of the well for anything deeper than this

Detach the old submersible pump from the discharge line. This is a flexible heavy duty line attached to the top of the pump. This line runs through a pitless adapter casing below the frost line to the tank in your home.

Select a submersible pump that is proper for your conditions. For instance, a deep well may need a high powered pump to make sure the pump overcomes gravity. You also need to look at the GPM or the gallons per minute rating on the pump to be sure it has the needed flow rate.

Install the pump according to the manufacturer’s specific directions. Be sure to follow frost line recommendations.

Dump a cup of bleach down the well to sanitize it and slowly lower the submersible pump down the well casing. Use a winch if necessary. Then replace the well cap.

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Water Circulating Pump Installation

Posted on December 2, 2010 by admin

Circulating pumps make life more comfortable and improve the efficiency of any hot water system. It takes a long time for the hot water to make its way through the pipes to the showerhead. A circulating pump not only speeds up getting the water to the shower, but all that cold water running while waiting for the hot water no longer just goes down the drain.
.Disassembling the Hot Water Tank
Disconnect all power to the hot water tank. If it’s gas, shut off the gas at the rotor valve in the gas feed line to the tank. Turn off the water supply to the hot water tank. There is a spigot valve located on the water feed line into the tank. Turn it clockwise until closed.There is no water pressure through the tank once the water supply is turned off.

Disconnect the water line opposite the line with the valve. This line sends water into the building. Use a pipe wrench or heavy pliers to remove the fitting. Move the pipe section to the house out of the way. This is the new circulation pump’s location.
Installing the pump
The pump will come with fittings to attach the pump inlet line to the hot water tank. Set the pump on top of the tank in a position allowing connection of the pump to the tank outlet water line. Use a hacksaw to cut the connecting tubing to length for a proper fit between the pump and water tank outlet. Use Teflon tape (available at all plumbing supply stores) to seal the threads on all screwed connections.

The tube that goes to the building may now be too long to connect correctly to the pump. If so, use the hacksaw again to cut the line to the proper length for a secure fitting to the pump’s outlet side. Make the connections from the pump to the water line.
Powering the Pump
The pump will need to be “hard wired” to an electrical power supply. If it’s an electric hot water tank, run the connection wire from the pump into the tank, and tie into the power at the tank’s top heating element. The power supply will run both the tank and the pump. If you are installing the pump on a gas hot water tank, run the pump power line to an electrical outlet, and install a three-prong outlet on the power line. Plug in the pump to any wall outlet. Be sure to turn the water supply to the tank back on at the valve, and also turn on the power or the gas.
Pump operation
The pump will only operate when water is passing through it. A pressure switch inside the water pump will activate, and speed water flow through the hot water line when a faucet is opened and water flow starts. The pressure switch will turn off the pump when the water is turned off.

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How to Install a Circulating Pump to a Water Heater

Posted on November 25, 2010 by admin

Installing a circulation pump for a water heater is a method for obtaining a constant hot water situation at most faucet locations that the pumps return pipe is connected. A circulation pump must have a complete path to fully circulate the hot water from the heater to as close to the exiting faucet as possible. Most hot water circulation pumps are used for either the bathroom sink, kitchen sink or the shower and bathtub faucets where instant hot water may be desired.
Shut off all electrical power and main water pressure to the hot water heater. This may entail the closing of the main water valve to the home depending on the plumbing situation in your own residence. Cut into the hot water line that is coming from the water heater. You will also need to cut into the cold water supply line that feeds the hot water heater. The check valve will be placed on this pipe so only cold water can flow into the water heater and the recirculated hot water cannot flow out and back into the cold water line.

Use the provided connecting flanges and install the pump in horizontal position. The flanges provided by the pumps maker will have a threaded insert for the existing piping to be screwed into and then the pump can be connected to the pipe flange with the bolts. Depending on the hot water feed pipes diameter will determine the size of the proper fittings for the pipe to flange connection. The flanges will have a high temperature seal or O-ring for making the connection waterproof. Generally due to the small size of the water pump, it will not need any extra support other than the water pipes to secure the unit in place. Most circulation pumps must run 24 hours a day and require a dedicated duplex receptacle to provide power.

Cut the hot water line that enters the sink area just below the faucet connection. The closer this joint is to the faucet, the quicker the hot water will flow from the pumping circuit. At this pipe joint is where the water will return back into the cold water line to be recirculated back into the hot water tank. The circulation pump will move the hot water down the normal hot water pipe to the sink but a return path for the water must be made. This is where the return line comes in to recirculate that water back into the water heater.

Insulate all the hot water lines in the circulation pumping circuit with the foam piping insulation.. This is most important as the hot water will quickly loose heat by exposure to the piping and being moved or circulated.

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The principle of Centrifugal pumps

Posted on November 18, 2010 by admin
Centrifugal-Pump-NFM

Centrifugal-Pump-NFM

Centrifugal pumps operate according to what is referred to as Bernoulli’s principle. They operate via the transfer of gyratory kinetic force. This is generally accomplished by an electric-powered motor. The rotary motion of the centrifugal pump’s impeller generates kinetic energy to liquid and draws the fluid in from the eye or center of the impeller.

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The History of Centrifugal Pumps

Posted on November 11, 2010 by admin
Centrifugal pumps are a mud lifting or water lifting type of machine. A archetype of a centrifugal pump was created in the year of 1475. However, true centrifugal machine pumps were manufactured in the latter part of the 1600s. This is when a man by the name, Denis Papin, created a centrifugal pump that consisted of straight vanes. It was not until 1851, when a man by the name of John Appold established the curved vane centrifugal pump.
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